Building a cedar strip canoe
Many thanks to the Woodworker club volunteers  including: Ken Birjkovff, Tom Funk, Denton Hushaw, Tom Malusky, Al Mossburg, Don Pilz, Bob Villegas, John Weidert, Ray Worthley and construction leaders Dan Moran & Lee Smith.

Note: A Special Thanks goes to Danny Breshears for letting the club use his woodworking facilities and all the necessary equipment to build the canoe. For your commercial woodworking needs consider:
Breshears Woodworking
162 E. Glazypeau Rd
Hot Springs Village
Phone: 624-1543
See more
Breshears Woodworking info by clicking on their website:
 The cedar strip canoe was built from plans purchased at the "Laughing Loon" website. The canoe model is "Solo Portage". The specifications are: Length 14' 6", Width 30", depth at center 10 1/2", Weight  52 lbs and 18" high at stems. Solo Portage is good tracking canoe with the stability to use as a fishing platform or for nature observation. To enable easier carrying (portage), the canoe is made with 3/16" cedar strips rather than the more common 4/16" thick strips. For additional canoe technical detail, refer to the website:

The cedar strip canoe build process is sequentially illustrated in the following 5 tables. The table titles for the major construction steps are: (1) Hull Build, (2) Hull Sanding, (3) Hull Fiberglassing, (4) Finishing Hull Interior & (5) Canoe Completion.

                            (1) Hull Build
"Laughing Loon" provided a full set of plans and templates.
Building a sturdy & square "strong back" is critical for successful construction.
Accurate forms are key to the canoe shape.
Forms are sequentially installed on strong back.
All forms installed.
10' cedar was purchased to save money and joined with scarf joints as needed for 14' 6" hull length.
Stabilization strips were used to hold forms in place.
Cedar strips build up started.
Cedar strips installation started.
Two teams working at the same time.
Lots of clamps speed up the process.
Applying TiteBond 2 glue to cedar strip edge.
Critical cedar strips installed.
Lots of clamps are used.
Holding strips together.
Extra long strips are trimmed to length later.
Careful hand planing of entire strip at various angles is critical for strong glue bonding to the next strip.
Steady progress strip by strip.
Many hands & tools speed up the process.
Clamps help while glue is drying.
Careful fitting of each strip is important.
Thanks to Danny Breshears for his clamps.
Not much room left to work in.
The hard part is coming up.
"Tell me again how to work in this tight space."
Temporary hot glue on top helps hold strips in place
while TiteBond 2 glue dries.
Careful fitting & planning is needed.
Final strips installed with no gaps.

                          (2) Hull Sanding
Many careful sanding passes to achieve smooth hull.
Everyone was very careful during sanding
to not create any problems.
Final sanded hull.

                 (3) Hull Fiberglassing
High quality fiberglass matting was used.
Initial positioning of fiberglass.
Fiberglass shaped to hull.
Epoxy poured & spread on fiberglass.
First epoxy coat complete on hull.
Light sanding between epoxy coats.
 Completion of basic hull & excess fiberglass trimmed off.
Walnut veneer design glued to bow.
Walnut veneer design finished & fiberglassed.
Completed hull ready to be set "right side up".

             (4) Finishing Hull Interior
Right side up & ready to knock out forms.
 Sanding interior smooth.
Positioning interior fiberglass cloth.
Applying epoxy to interior.
Trimming interior fiberglass.

                 (5) Canoe Completion

Attaching trim & water drainage feature.
Lots of clamps needed to hold trim for glue setup.
Attaching final trim.
Attaching supports for canoe decking.
Attaching supports for canoe seats.
Installing canoe seats.
Spar varnish spray coat applied.
Thanks to Adam Breshears for great
spar varnish spray coat finish
Construction end  -cedar strip canoe finished

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